You know how sometimes you visit a place at just the right time in your life? For me, Lisbon was like that. I was hungry for something a bit imperfect, colorful, alive, different. And Lisbon hit that sweet spot. It seems the more you travel, the more you understand your own aesthetic. For instance, I love things that aren’t too clean and perfect, that combine the right amount of grit and color and whimsy and liveliness. Lisbon had all of those things and more. And for that reason, it gets a spot on my favorite cities list: places I will gladly revisit throughout my life.
And speaking of lists, it’s almost always the unexpected, the novel, the unplanned thing that makes my list of favorite travel moments. And our trip to Lisbon was full of those. Days overstuffed with sights to check off–no thanks. The way a place looks and tastes and feels and sounds–that’s my preferred way of getting to know a city. We approached most days with the same agenda: walk outside (after a leisurely breakfast) and see what the city has in store for us.
A few favorite moments:
*Chatting with our host Luis, over blue cheese empanadas and a huge plate of blistered, salted peppers, about the way you can tell a Lisbon woman from a tourist by her choice of footwear and the elegant way she traverses the slippery stones lining the hilly streets. (I, for the record, did not look like a Lisbon woman in my flat sandals).
*Stopping for lunch at Darwin’s Cafe, consuming a tad too much sangria and forgoing Jeronimos Monastery (for fear of giggling uncontrollably in a religious environment) in favor of a beach adventure. Getting lost repeatedly. Realizing getting lost is half the fun.
*Exploring the narrow mountain-top terraces of the beautiful, colorful Pena Palace as a blanket of cool white fog crept in around us.
*Navigating the elevators and stairwells of a parking garage, unsure of where our tipster had sent us and, just as we were certain we had the completely wrong place, emerging onto a secret rooftop bar with a panoramic view of the city, the sun slipping below the cathedrals, painting everything an ethereal pink.
*Enjoying wine-poached pears and beet gazpacho and caramel covered pastries and port and caipirinhas and ginjinha (a cherry liqueur), most of it after 11 pm, the dinner hour in Lisbon.
*Rumbling through the streets at breakneck speed aboard yellow streetcars.
*Climbing up, up, up (as Luis says, “Always up!”).
*Escaping the oppressive heat each day with an outdoor rain shower and an evening nap.
*Buying 2 euro drinks and watching the streets of the Bairro Alto come alive from an outdoor stoop, a set of stairs converted into a makeshift bar or a rickety chair outside of one of the myriad teensy tiny bars.
*Finding little surprises everywhere–hot pink pavement, a cheeky piece of street art in a hidden alley, a square festooned with colorful streamers, waterfront chairs planted with trees, heads popping out of tiny doorfront windows to say hello or hang laundry or warily eye my big tourist camera, little children dancing around fountains after midnight.
And here, some more favorites….
Luckily, we left ourselves plenty to discover next time. Hopefully, we’ll make it to Jeronimos after all. Unless, of course, something more enticing comes along. ;)
What type of cities are you most drawn to? Ones full of natural beauty? Quiet hideaways? Busy and boisterous? Colorful, orderly, serene?
(P.S. If you ever visit Lisbon, check out Zuza B&B and Zuza Apartment and Suite Rentals. We stayed in Zuza Villa Rosa. And the whole experience, from the location to the decor to Luis’ above and beyond hospitality was seriously the best.)
Gorgeous pictures Rian!
Looks like a beautiful city, Rian. Truth be told, I’ve never had much desire to go to Lisbon, but with these anecdotes and photos, now I have another place to see on my travel bucket list. :)
I’ve heard that from a lot of people–that Lisbon wasn’t really on their radar. I think it’s a fantastic place to visit once you’ve seen other major European cities. I feel like I appreciated it more because I could see sort of the little bits and pieces of other cities it reminded me of and also appreciate the ways in which it was different and unique. But I’d highly recommend it, as long as you don’t mind walking up a lot of steep hills! I just loved it.
Lisbon wasn’t on my list of top places that I want to visit until I read this post! Definitely looks like quite a colorful, chaotic and alive city. Love the pictures too.
Cool, I hope you get a chance to check it out and see if it’s your kind of city :)
I loved Lisbon so much I went back with my husband at the first opportunity. Took the holy grail To Pasteis de Belem to feast on the little cakes, the original ones. If you haven’t done so, keep it for next time
Ha, that was the part where we got too tipsy. We didn’t make it past Bélem Tower. Next time for sure! If you ever go (back?) to Sintra–I had the very best chocolate “pie” of my life at a place called Cafe Saudade. They have amazing sandwiches too. I’m still dreaming about it.
Looks like a great trip. Lisbon has long been on my list. Interestingly, while you were in Lisbon, I was in Vancouver! My first trip to BC, and it was a blast! I’m too inexperienced a traveler to know exactly what my aesthetic is but I agree the best bits are the walking and wandering without a plan.
Oh, cool! I hope you had good weather. What was your favorite thing that you did/saw in Van?
The weather was perfect. I liked sitting outside at the Granville Market and watching the boat traffic on False Creek. Also loved the UBC Museum of Anthropology. Fantastic!
I’m so glad you had great weather! Vancouver is like two different cities: the sunny one and the cloudy one. It makes a huge difference to see it in all if it’s sunshiney glory. I actually live on False Creek so I watch those boats from my window every day :) Glad to hear you had a fun trip. Sorry to have missed you–It would have been fun to grab a drink!
WOW. Just wow.
I visited Lisbon many years ago, absolutely loved it! Met on woman on the train there, who invited us to stay with her and her boys…. who we expected to be young.,… and were greeted at the door by these gorgeous hunks! :-) They showed us a Lisbon we’d have never seen otherwise. Great memories!
Now that’s the kind of Lisbon story a lot of ladies would like to have ;) How fun!
Ah, just the kind of post I need as we begin to descend into autumn here in the PacNW. Looks like you had a fabulous time. I have to admit, Lisbon has never been on any travel list of mine, however, after hearing you recount your trip, it looks like a must-see. Great photos, Rian!
Oh, don’t remind me ;) Fall has always been my favorite season but these short summers are beginning to change that. Just one more month of summer, pretty please!
Υou brought me nice memories from my trip to Lisboa… Thanks! Great pictures :)
Lovely post and awesome photos. I can’t wait to visit Lisbon some day.
I can’t be more pleased to read these words.
I follow your blog some time ago and I’m from Lisbon!!!
Loved your words!!
Thank you and you’re always welcome!
Ana
Very cool! Lucky gal–you live in a wonderful city. I’ll definitely be back :)
We loved Lisbon! The street cars, the randomness–we “found” the best cervejaria (cervejaria Ramiro) riding the street cars up and down the city. There was a crowd on the sidewalk, waiting to get in and we jumped off the street car and got in line. The owner was serving us beer while we waited for our table. We met so many people–it was like a street party. Inside wasn’t fancy, though we ate some of the best seafood I’ve ever had. It was a blast!
Ahh, what a fun memory! It feels like you can make friends anywhere in Lisbon, doesn’t it? Most people are so open and friendly–it is like one big open air party, especially at night. You’re making me want to go back! ;)
Awesome experience. I like to travel exactly the same way you do – without a strict itinerary, just wandering about and letting the day unfold. If I don’t see all the “sights”, that’s okay. It’s the overall experience and how the place felt and the people I met that’s important to me. When I was living in Paris I saw people rushing around all the time, trying to squeeze everything in and in effect missing the very essence of the city. (I wrote a post on this, link http://bit.ly/17JeibZ). Overall, I love this post and it sounds like you had a fabulous time!
Totally agree. I used to think “cram all of the sights into a day” was the way you were supposed to travel. I mean, god forbid you miss something, right? But I’ve realized that you can have a way better time doing less while enjoying it more. It’s good to make space for meeting people and trying things and making your own discoveries, things you didn’t read about in a guidebook. And eating. Definitely eating! Loved your post :)
Oh yes, eating!! You simply cannot go to a foreign land, or any land for that matter, and not at least try the local cuisine! Thanks for stopping by my blog, and glad you enjoyed the post! :)
Terrific pictures! I’m envious.
Well, we’re already sort of city soulmates, so I’m pretty sure you’d dig Lisbon as well ;)
Ooo! Lisbon looks like my type of place, and reminds me a lot of Spain (which would make sense ;)… I love a peaceful old city, full of hidden treasures and quiet beauty, free of tourist lines and ridiculous prices. Portugal is on my travel list, but I’ll have to bump it up a notch. Perhaps when we go back to Spain we will visit! Glad you are back! Love the pics! xoxo
Ahh, you should check it out, Tobi! If you like Spain, I think you will enjoy Portugal, though I would say they are distinct from one another. Portugal definitely has its own vibe and food culture (most people I spoke to before I left preferred the bolder flavors of Spanish food, but I was surprised by the diversity of food I found in Lisbon–a lot of modern flavors and African influences depending on where you choose to eat). And, be forewarned–the ocean is *cold*. I think that may be one of the main reasons it’s not as touristy as the Mediterranean countries. We stayed in a nice residential area, the Principe Real, which I’d highly recommend–close to everything but away from the tourists. I would love to go back to Spain sometime soon. I want to tack Morocco onto that trip!
Oh I also want to go to Morocco! I remember my summer in Northern Spain…the sea was SO cold, well, and it rained all summer, but the rest of it captivated me. I don’t have an ounce of Latin blood, but maybe in a previous life?!
Beautiful pictures! Portugal has always been on my list but rather far down, this reminds me to move it up. The pictures remind me a bit of Rome which turned out to be one of my favorite cities in Europe. I have a similar aesthetic to you, I like cities that are a little bit gritty and very lively. When I am looking for a serene place I prefer to go to a quiet trail in the forest or a little known beach. Anyway, sounds like you had a wonderful vacation, thanks so much for sharing :)
It seems like Lisbon has little pieces of so many cities. I was trying to pinpoint them all, and it became difficult. There are huge similarities to San Fran–the street cars, the hills, the colors, the bridge. But I even found myself walking in squares that reminded me of Paris. Maybe that’s why I like it so much–it’s an aesthetic mixture of so many fantastic places. Definitely a dash of Rome in there as well ;)
Great article! Found it really interesting the way you shared your experience. If you ever come back to Lisbon, let me know, we would be very happy to invite you to one of our tours of http://www.lisbonhost.com and share some love of our Beautiful City.
Wish you lots of Joy
David
Hello! I’m new here and I just loved your description of Lisbon. You had me at wine-poached pears and beet gazpacho!
I enjoy visiting cities that are great to explore at my own pace without having a whole list of to-dos.
Wow, Lisbon is so colorful and beautiful! I want to go there so much!
Love the pics … and the post.
The answer to your question is “yes”. (all the above)
Awesome photos and post.
Im from Lisbon but living in London. I miss Lisbon..
Thank you for the good post!
Wonderful! I love street art, I just posted a few pictures from Lexington,KY. Working on adding more! Please continue sharing! What great cake!